Double width deflected double weave with warps crossing over

Deflected double weave

Deflected double weave, especially in wool and silk is a favourite weave. Lovley handle and drape. The weave is a double weave, with multiple, usually two. The difference is that the layers interlace and incorporate warp and weft floats which allow the fabric layers to slide up over and under each other during wet finishing. Simple versions combine tabby with warp and weft floats in regular four end blocks.

photo of deflected double weave cloth
Deflected double weave cloth

A good place to start designing single layer deflected double weave is with a block profile of an overshot draft. This ensures an alternate block tabby sequence. The fabric above comes from a block profile with half the number of blocks to the number of shafts on the loom. Single layer deflected double weave has a series of warp ends, and weft picks in one colour, usually followed by a number of ends and picks in another, usually contrasting colour. In this case, four light, then four dark.

diagrams of block profile; deflected weave colour effect and draw down
block profile |deflected weave colour effect and draw down

The diagram above left shows one block profile repeat for the fabric. The centre is a rendition of the colour effects. The drawdown on the far right reveals blocks of tabby weaving alternately with floats, in four end blocks, in both warp and weft direction. Warp and weft floats sit on each side of each block of tabby See Alice Schlein and Denise Kovnat for inspiring deflected double weave fabrics.

It is possible to weave two layers of deflected double weave with a fold using an end end alternate light / dark silk warp threaded on the TC2.

The usual way to weave two layers of cloth is to weave a pick in one layer then the other. However by reversing the order of the third and fourth picks, you can produce a fold. Weave the layers in this order: top, bottom, bottom, top. See diagram below: on the left is the path of the shuttle, on the right, how the fold works.

shuttle path and position of fold
shuttle path and position of fold

Vibeke Vestby of Digital Weaving Norway published a quick method in Adobe ‘Photoshop‘ for designing double width fabric for a jacquard loom. She starts with a ready to weave file.

I followed this, adapting the pattern presets used. The colours in the warp switch between the two layers, every eighth end. This makes each layer have four ends of one colour followed by four ends of the other. I used the green grid and black-white point pattern presets shown below. Read exactly how it works in a pdf here.

Pattern presets: Green grid and Black-white points
Pattern presets: Green grid and Black-white points

Practical details: Warp: 2/16 nm silk from Eurestex, sett at 45 epi / 18 epc. white and a dark grey violet.

Freeform deflected double weave

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